Flying Basics

You Can Fly an R/C Airplane!

For most people, the beauty of an airplane's design lies in its lines and curves. For the flier, however, the beauty of a design includes what that design can do. That feeling is as true for R/C (radio control) pilots as it is for pilots of full-size aircraft. Their differences—aircraft size, and the fact that R/C pilots remain on the ground—have very little impact on the way given designs perform. As a result, R/C hobbyists have been able to model and fly aircraft that range from the Wright Brothers' first plane to the magnificent Space Shuttle.

Aerodynamics:

To fly, an airplane's wing has to overcome gravity by developing lift greater than the weight of the plane. Since it can't do that standing still, airplanes use thrust...force directed backwards...to drive the wing forward through the air and generate lift. However, thrust has its own opposition to overcome in the form of drag—the resistance of the air to a body moving through it. If lift and thrust are greater than gravity and drag, you have the potential for flight...and fun Wing placement, for the most part, falls into two major categories—high wing design and low wing design. In a high wing design, the weight of the model is suspended below the wing. When the model tilts, the model's weight tries to return it to a level position. As a result, high-wing models tend to be more stable, easier to fly—and natural choices for trainers. A low-wing model is just the opposite. With its weight above the wing, it tends to be less stable—excellent for advanced fliers who want to perform rolls, loops and other aerobatic maneuvers Airfoil: If you face the wing tip of the plane and cut it from front to back, the cross section exposed would be the wing's airfoil. The Flat-Bottom Airfoil will develop the most lift at low speeds and helps return the model to upright when tilted. This is ideal for trainers and first-time pilots. A Symmetrical Airfoil's top and bottom have the same shape, allowing it to produce lift equally whether right side up or upside down and to transition between the two smoothly. This is recommended for advanced pilots. Lastly, a Semi-Symmetrical Airfoil is a combination of the other two and favored by intermediate and sport pilots. Wing Area/Wing Loading: Wing area is the amount of wing surface available to create lift. Wing loading is the weight that a given area of the wing has to lift and is usually measured in ounces per square foot. Generally, a light wing loading is best for beginners. The plane will perform better and be easier to control. Dihedral: Dihedral is the upward angle of the wings from the fuselage.Dihedral increases stability and decreases aerobatic ability.

Wing Thickness:

Wing thickness — measured from top to bottom — determines how much drag is created. A thick wing creates more drag, causing slower speeds and gentler stalls and is ideal for beginners. A thin wing permits higher speeds and sudden stalls — desirable for racing and certain aerobatic maneuvers.

Landing Gear Location:

Tricycle gear includes a nose gear and two wing (main) gears, making takeoffs and landings easier—ideal for beginners.

Choosing the Size of Your Plane

The "size" of a model plane generally refers to the size of engine, in cubic inch displacement, required to fly it successfully. The most popular sizes are 20 (requiring a .20-.36 engine), 40 (.40-.53 engine) and 60 (.60-.75 engine). Many other sizes are available, too, ranging from small, .049-powered craft up to massive, giant-scale models.

Most trainers fall into the 40-size category. That's because 40s are fairly stable, with enough heft to fly well in breezy conditions, but still small enough to be affordable for new hobbyists. Many 60-size trainers are also available, and offer the advantage of even greater stability—plus easier visibility once aloft—both due to their larger dimension.

 

Choosing Your Type of Plane
 

What first attracts many would-be pilots to the idea of R/C flying is the thought of controlling a blistering-fast ducted fan jet or wicked WWII war bird. And there's no better way to put a quick END to your flying career than to start with such a model They're simply not designed for anyone who hasn't yet developed sharp piloting skills. Model plane styles are available that duplicate virtually every kind of full-size aircraft. The best ones for the first-timers are, without question, trainers and trainer-like sailplanes. These are specifically engineered to fly slowly and smoothly. They'll keep you out of trouble—giving you time to acquire the skill and confidence You'll need for those jets and warbirds.

Engines

Model planes can use several different types of power sources. Electric models carry battery-powered motors to turn the propeller. Gliders or sailplanes ride on thermal air currents (some also have electric motors for quick launching to great heights). Most R/C models, however, are powered by glow engines.

The most economical are basic 2-stroke engines with brass bushings supporting the crankshaft. For a little more power, you might choose a 2-stroke that uses ball bearings to support the crankshaft. The ball bearings also extend the life of the engine, so you can continue using it to power future models. The cost, however, is nearly twice that of a bushing-equipped engine.

Finally, there's the 4-stroke glow engine—slightly less powerful than 2-strokes of the same size and higher priced, but offering more torque, swinging bigger props, using less fuel and sounding much more realistic.

Accessories

When you buy a model airplane, you'll probably also need to buy a number of additional, inexpensive accessory items to make it flight-ready (those items are listed under the Accessories Required links for the plane you choose). These parts are traditionally left out of kits because the appropriate sizes depend on your choice of engine; also, experienced hobbyists may have a brand preference or already keep those parts in their workshop. Required accessories often include the following:

Covering

The adhesive-backed, plastic or fabric "skin" that surrounds a model airplane's structure, applied by a process of heating and stretching.

Pushrods

Rods that link your radio system's servos to the parts of the model that those servos move. They're often made of wire or a firm piece of balsa, fiberglass, or plastic, with a clevis fastener at the end.

Control Horn

A bracket, mounted on a part of the model, where the pushrods are attached.

Hinges

Connect the moveable surfaces of a model to the main, static structure.

Foam Rubber

Used to cushion the on-board radio equipment to protect it from engine vibration.

Wing Seating Tape

Applied where the wing fits onto the fuselage, to cushion the wing and prevent exhaust oils from entering the fuselage.

Wheel Collars

Small metal collars, which keep the plane’s wheels, positioned correctly on the axle.

Wheels

Available in several styles, such as treaded, non-treaded, scale, and air-filled.

Spinner

Plastic or aluminum cone mounted at the "nose" of the plane to improve looks and aerodynamics.

Engine Mount

Reinforced structure, often made of nylon or aluminum, that allows your engine to be attached securely to the plane.

Fuel Tank, Tubing & Filters

The sized used depends on the engine you select; therefore, these often are not included with the model.

Engine Accessories

Propellers are usually not included with the engine or the plane; also, your engine may or may not come with a muffler and glow plug.

Field Equipment

Once y0ur aircraft is chosen, built and covered, there's only one thing left to do...fly it! To do that, you'll need what we refer to as "flight line equipment"—such as fuel, a fuel pump, engine starting equipment and a few other basic tools. Except for the fuel, most flight line supplies are one-time purchases. You can use them throughout your modeling career, with as many different models as you fly.

Most modelers go to the field equipped with the following, all stored in a "flight box" for easy transport:

Power Panel

The centralized power source for electrical field equipment

12V Field Battery

To supply power to the power panel

DC Charger

To recharge the 12V field battery

Glow Plug Clip

An electric device that gives your engine's glow plug the initial heat it needs to burn fuel

Fuel Pump

To move fuel from your gallon can or jug to the plane's fuel tank, available in hand-crank or electric-powered styles

Fuel Line, Filters & Cap Fittings

To connect your fuel to the pump, and the pump to the plane's fuel tank.

12V Electric Starter

A device for quick, easy engine starting, powered from the power panel (a small wooden dowel or "chicken stick" can also be used).

Miscellaneous Tools

Including a 4-way glow plug/prop wrench.

Glow plugs and propellers

It's always a good idea to carry extras...without a spare, you might be forced to stop flying early.

The glow fuel used for a model engines carries a percent rating, which indicates its nitro methane content. For trainer aircraft, 10% or 15% is recommended. Use a good quality fuel with a blend of castor oil and synthetic lubricants to protect your engine. Avoid "cheap" fuels, which sometimes attract moisture and cause engine parts to rust.